Whenever I've eaten at Aquavit, his Scandinavian restaurant in NYC (I'm looking forward to his new place in Harlem that's supposed to open this fall), the food on the plate was beautiful, colorful in a way that didn't seem forced, and it didn't make me mutter darkly, quoting Julia Child on nouvelle cuisine — "it's so beautifully arranged on the plate, you know someone's fingers have been all over it." He's really good at editing; a lot of classically trained chefs overwhelm fish with sauces and spices, and he doesn't. And yet stuff isn't bland; he's not afraid of hitting one or two flavor notes in a dish and hitting them hard.
I really miss the waterfall at Aquavit. It was wonderful to go there for a Swedish brunch and eat gravlax and chill.
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multibeautiful May. 16th, 2010 07:23 pm)
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I really miss the waterfall at Aquavit. It was wonderful to go there for a Swedish brunch and eat gravlax and chill.